Monthly Archives: June 2011

Hey, Soul Sister.

The beauty of being self-published, is that I get to do exactly what I want. And right now, I want to post a thousand pictures and help you step into my day.

In breaking news, Miriam and Coumba sat me down and explained a fool proof method to “make a man fall in love with you”. Are you ready for this?

…cook him chicken. Chicken. I mean, Godiva Chocolate cheesecake, I might be able to understand. Something with cookie dough? Absolutely. Fudge centers and I? Till’ death do us part. 

…but chicken? 

Well, shoot. Easy peasy! Somebody call Cosmo and tell them that they’ve got it all wrong.

These precious girls were at the market at 7:30 AM, and spent hours cooking for us. They paid for everything they used with money that they don’t really have-and spared no expense. The meal that they made for us today is a meal traditionally served at weddings and grand parties-every little piece of it, from the yellow rice to the chicken,  is simply more expensive.

Miriam.

Fanta.

Coumba.

Washing the rice-a necessity if you’d prefer not to chip a tooth on the tiny rocks hiding amidst the grains. That, and there’s always the rat poo-poo. Western snob that I am, I prefer poo-poo-less rice.

I love this girl. I can’t wrap my mind around the idea that after two years, I have to say goodbye to her tomorrow.

The neighborhood…

Is this goat not the most pitiful thing you’ve ever seen? I wanted to take him home, name him Frank and never, ever eat him.

…but I don’t think they’ll let Frank through customs next week.

I’m sorry, Frank.

Plating the food! Senegalese women are all about presentation-which I love.

And this? This was to die for. You’d be amazed and what kind of damage a couple of  Senegalese women can do to that much food. [And by "that much food", I mean more than a pound of rice per person. Help me, Rhonda.]

Christy, Michelle and I got forks-but the rest of them went at it Senegalese-style and ate with their hands. Call me a weenie, but it’s the one thing I simply can’t stand! In Senegal, it’s the hostess’ job to tear off pieces of meat with her hand [a hand that she's been using to squish rice into the oily balls she's popping in her mouth] and place them in front of the guests gathered around her platter. Well today, each one of those sweet girls fancied herself the hostess-and for the life of me, I couldn’t scoop rice and chicken into my mouth faster than they were each throwing food towards my piece of the platter!

Swimming. Up. Stream.

It was perfectly lovely.

And tomorrow is goodbye.

5 Comments

Filed under Ministry moments, Senegal

Mangos and Magnolia Trees.

Packing last fall.

Ten. There are just ten more links on the yellow paper chain hanging by my window. Ten days from right this moment, I’ll be driving in North Carolina. I see Magnolia trees, unsweetened peach mango iced tea, baseball games and a bed in my very near future!

I finally broke the news to Mohammad the Fruit Stand Man yesterday, on the way home from my run. I confessed that next week I’m leaving, and I won’t be coming back this time. His chocolate eyes widened as he uttered a dismayed, “Ah, BON? Oh, cheri!”

Then he asked me to dinner.

Persistent until the bitter end, that one. His consolation shall be that though I refuse to marry him regardless of the number of animals that he offers to slaughter on my behalf, [thoughtful man that he is] he has endeared himself to me in a way that no other fruit stand man has. Mangos and pineapples have always engaged my affections more easily than dead mammals, anyways.

Two years ago, “getting ready” to move to Africa entailed buying an impossible number of Hello Kitty bandaids and carefully packing my practical stilettos, polka-dotted rainboots and cowgirl boots [clearly all necessary footwear for life in a third world African country]. I stock piled veritable vats of blue Crest Mouthwash and deep-moisturizing hair conditioner. I read stacks of books about Islam, bought enough Tylenol cold syrup, hand sanitizer and mosquito repellant to fill up no less than three kiddie pools, and allowed a travel nurse to pump me full of every recommended drug known to man. Undaunted, I scoured endless aisles of medications at Target and tossed bottles and boxes of pills meant to treat every disease that I might possibly contract during my African hiatus. I even faithfully started taking my malaria medication the required three weeks before I hopped on a plane.

I had no idea how unprepared I was. Not a thing in this world could have readied me for life in Senegal.

And now, two years later, I find myself sorting through dusty boxes-finding partially-burned pumpkin spiced candles and an embarrassing number of those Hello Kitty bandaids. One-by-one, half-empty bottles of shampoo and lotion are being carefully zipped into plastic bags and tucked away into my oversized blue duffel. Target t-shirts are tossed into the “give” pile, and my holey running shoes are headed towards the trash. As I sort through the remnants of my past two years, I find myself at a loss as I try to understand what it will mean to leave this place that I have loved and hated. To walk away from the sweet Muslim women that I will never see again.

Tomorrow, Miriam, Fatou and some other friends are throwing Christy, Michelle and I a Bon Voyage party. We’ll be cooking Yassa Dienne [fish, onions and rice] at Fatou’s house all day long. On Wednesday, we’re throwing ourselves a goodbye party-and it will be the last time I see all of the precious girls I’ve been working with for two years. The last time I get to tell them why I picked up and moved to Africa-the last time that I explain who Jesus is, and why they desperately need Him. Wednesday marks my last day of work in Senegal-after that, my team is taking a week to pack and clean and close out life in Dakar.

Not that I have the foggiest idea how to do that.

In the face of walking away from Muslim friends that don’t know Jesus, I am unspeakably grateful that Jesus doesn’t need me to change hearts. Heart change is entirely a work of the Holy Spirit-and not something that I conjure up on my own. And in the midst of heart-wrenching goodbyes, I choose to cling to the truth that God loves those women more than I do. His irrational love for Miriam, Fatou, Khadi, Amy, Aida, Sophie, Awa and the rest of my friends was measured at the cross. His power to save and redeem them was measured at the resurrection. Second Corinthians 5:7 says “We live by faith-not by sight.” What I see right now is a group of Muslim women that are too afraid or too hardened to follow Jesus-but by faith, I believe that God can still redeem even the hardest heart in the group.

Even if I never get to see it.

I write for a myriad of reasons-and as of late, I write to make sense of my life. Thank you for letting me process.

2 Comments

Filed under God's faithfulness, Ministry moments, Senegal

See, What Had Happened Was…[Spilling the Beans.]

Sun-drenched mornings are meant to be orchestrated to the intoxicating tune of percolating coffee. Mornings beg for coffee.

As do bagels.

And oxygen.

This morning was no different. I rolled off my mat on the floor and groggily stumbled into the kitchen-where with great delight, I discovered that it was new-bag-of-coffee-day.

This is something that only coffee drinkers can understand. Those of you that prefer to avoid legal addictive stimulants [and truly, I salute you!] will simply have to trust me on this one- there’s just something about opening a brand new, vacuum-sealed bag of coffee that tickles the imagination and causes a piece of you to come alive.

With a sleepily satisfied smile, I opened the cupboard and pulled out a fresh bag of hazelnut crème coffee. To my unspeakable horror, two roaches the size of small kittens promptly fell off of the offending bag and onto the floor, where they scurried about in a frenzied attempt to find somewhere to hide.

Not that they needed to. I was approximately eighteen steps ahead of them, and had already run hollering from the kitchen looking for a place that I could hide.

I would rather die of exposure than deal with a roach.

However, I would rather deal with a roach than miss my morning coffee.  Without my first cup of coffee, I find it utterly impossible to laugh, operate heavy machinery or have any discernible personality whatsoever. If you’re a chocolate-swirl, spattering of peppermint pieces, dash of cinnamon, dollop of whipped cream kind of person; you likely view coffee as more of a recreational activity. Now, that’s just fine-but some of us have a genuine, medical need for the stuff if we are to deal with the people around us in a nonviolent manner. And unfortunately, said roaches stood between me and my first pot of coffee-thus, all was not right in Whoville.

I stood hesitantly outside of my kitchen, braving the elements and desperately attempting to work up the gumption to battle the bugs. My un-caffeinated stand-off with the roaches lasted approximately seven excruciating minutes, before my menacing can of Raid and I manned up and determined to rescue my beloved coffee pot-and, by association, my sanity.

Both roaches had, of course, long since escaped-[and are presumably currently snuggled up under a bag of French Vanilla]-and so I made my café au lait in tentative peace, being careful to pick around the dead ants in the sugar bag as I measured out a teaspoon.

12.

9 Comments

Filed under My ghetto-fab life, Senegal

Trollops Are People Too.

You would have understood if you’d only been there-I just know you would’ve.

Call it a momentary lapse in judgment.  Blame the relentless heat-Dakar does, after all, feel very much like an oven as of late. Or maybe the stress of leaving this country forever in just seventeen days has finally addled my brain. Or the fish! Consuming copious amounts of fish can lead to mercury poisoning, I hear.

That must be it. I have mercury poisoning. It’s the only plausible explanation as to what on earth possessed me to wear a strapless, sunshine yellow pool cover-up outside in a Muslim country yesterday.

Yes, I’m a trollop. Yes, I’m humiliated. But spare me the lecture-Kellan beat you to it.

It all started after church. Michelle and I recently discovered a bakery downtown where the coffee doesn’t taste

Christy and I with the two men that have kept us alive for two whole years. I'm knighting them just as soon as I get home and find my sword.

like liquid trout, and there’s a divine chocolate fudge concoction that makes me cry, it’s so good.

Really, I don’t know why I bother eating anything else.

Using every ounce of my persuasive powers, I shamelessly begged, wheedled and pleaded with Dayton, Michelle, and Christy to venture downtown to said bakery with me after lunch. After they finally acquiesced, I delightedly ran to get ready to go. Pack my rucksack, kiss my loved ones goodbye-you know the drill.

And then it hit me. I have some pretty vicious tan lines from running in the scorching, African sun every day-and in the spirit of getting rid of them,  …well, I decided it would be just brilliant  to throw on my strapless, yellow pool cover-up over a pair of shorts, and wear it to the bakery. You know, uh, since it was a weekend. And I was going with friends. And we weren’t going to be in a part of town where anybody knew us. And…

Mercury poisoning. Remember the mercury poisoning. This is clearly no laughing matter, friends.

Impishly, I walked into the living room looking for all the world like a three year old that had been caught coloring on the wall. Dayton rolled his eyes, thanked his lucky stars that he only had eighteen more days of keeping me alive left, and off we went.

We made it to the bakery without incident, and ate ourselves into the most gloriously mind-numbing chocolate coma you can possibly imagine as my eyes rolled into the back of my head and I reveled in my newfound wardrobe freedom.  As much as I love my Mennonite clothing options in Dakar, there was something delicious about breaking the rules. It was all I could do not to stand up on the table, throw my hand over my heart and belt out the Star Spangled banner. I felt like Susan B. Anthony and Elizabeth Stanton all rolled into one-staging my own, personal protest against a repressive system that treats women as possessions.

While getting rid of my tan lines. I am nothing, if not efficient.

Once we regained the power of movement, Christy, Michelle and I followed Dayton out to the road like three little ducklings as he bartered for a taxi-and then we all piled into the dirty backseat while Dayton sat up front next to our Senegalese driver.

Who seemed, disconcertingly enough, much more interested in the three American girls in his rear view mirror than the cars barreling furiously towards us on the busy road.

Finally, he just couldn’t take it anymore. He turned to Dayton and asked: “Ils sont vos femmes?” [Are they your wives?]

Dayton shook his head furiously as an indignant chorus of “Non!” rang out from the backseat.

With a sly grin, our male-chauvinist-pig driver then hungrily commented, “Vous a beacoup-donne moi un.” [You have a lot-give me one of them.]

He then gave me a drawn-out, lecherous once-over in the rear view mirror and slowly said: “Donne moi elle.” [Give me her.]

Ah, yes. The floozy in the strapless pool cover up. Well, that makes sense.

As I vehemently protested “Absolutement NON!” ,  and tried to remember how to say “snowballs chance in hell” in French, an outraged Christy jumped in and angrily lectured: “Nous ne sommes pas les choses que il peut donner-nous sommes des humaines!” [We are not things that he can give, we’re HUMAN!]

…I don’t know what it was. The sun, the mercury poisoning, my strapless yellow pool cover up or my male chauvinist future husband- but Christy’s incensed, righteously indignant tirade on basic human rights to a man that had probably never had a woman stand up to him before just tickled my funny bone.

And I snorted the rest of the way home.

Our taxi driver, on the other hand, didn’t say another word.

That’s Christy: 1 and Male Chauvinist Pig: 0.

10 Comments

Filed under Cross cultural hilarity, My favorite people

Why I Moved to Africa.

There is something irresistible in the secret thrill of the unfamiliar.

As a little girl, I used to eagerly scour the pages of any exotic National Geographic that contained pictures of villages in rural Africa. My eyes were captivated by proud women with garish head wraps and more arm bangles than my Barbie doll-by gaunt faces of children with resigned eyes that somehow seemed much older than my own. I couldn’t tear my gaze away from lean-to shacks fashioned out of abandoned construction materials and cardboard boxes standing precariously in the midst of a dusty, desert wasteland that stretched far beyond the brilliant orange and yellow sunset skyline.

Like a meteor shooting through my imagination, Africa captured my daydreams.

In high school, I got to step into the pages of the National Geographic when a starry July night found me on the outskirts of just such an African village, in Botswana. It was a place crushed by poverty, deadened by hopelessness. Squawking chickens and bleating goats competed with the distant sound of beating drums that together comprised the ebb and flow of a symphony unlike anything I had ever heard. The overwhelming stench of raw sewage and trash strewn haphazardly about tickled my nose as I sat wide eyed in the back of a rusty pick up truck.

My team and I were showing the Jesus Film in the village that night. I don’t know if you’ve seen it; but it’s a movie that depicts the birth, life, death and resurrection of Jesus. We set up a rickety screen in the middle of an open, dusty field, and a small projector provided the only light for miles. [In a place with no electricity, nightfall becomes an altogether different thing.] In the murky black of that night, one of my teammates stood in front of the gathered crowed just before the movie began, and explained that the man they were about to see in the film was the Son of God, and the answer to the sin that separated them from Him.

And then the grainy film flickered to life.

There’s a shot at the beginning of the crucifixion, when the camera shows a nail being pounded into Jesus’ hand.  As the hammer dealt its first deadly blow that night, a sharp scream pierced the darkness.

I’d never heard anything like it before, nor have I since. Gut wrenching and agonizing-the scream seemed to come from everywhere at once. Echoing off of rocks and dead trees, all-consuming in its grief-it was only clear that someone, somewhere, was breaking.

It took several minutes to find the source-but finally, we stumbled across an inconsolable older woman doubled over, hopelessly rocking back and forth as desperate tears made rivers down her withered cheeks.

Through her broken sobs, we could only make out the heart-wrenching phrase “He’s dead! He’s dead! He’s dead.” Over and over, like hopeless waves of grief that threatened to lose her in their tide. Slowly, we came to understand that she’d never before heard about Jesus.

Not once.

And with typical Western naiveté, we had presented a glimpse of the gospel before the film-but an incomplete one. We’d told the crowd that the man they were about to see was the Son of God, the answer to their problem of sin and the only way to know God-…and then we’d started the film. Something in that woman’s heart had resonated with the truth that she needed Jesus as enthralled, she’d watch Him be born, she’d watched Him live…but suddenly, she was watching Him die. And she thought that was the end of the story-that there was no hope.

I have no memory of not knowing who Jesus was, or what He’d done for me. Do you? Yet somehow, that sweet woman had gone sixty plus years without ever hearing His name.

Khadi.

She heard His name that night-His name, and the end of the story. And that was the night that she decided to follow Jesus.

That was also the night that I got angry. It was very simple in my mind-the fact that she had never heard the gospel before was inexcusable and unacceptable. And that was the night that I decided to change the way I prayed. Instead of “God, if you call me to go, I will”, I began instead to ask Him to allow me to go.

In a world where at least 1.6 billion people don’t have access to the gospel, those of us that claim to follow Christ needn’t ask God elementary questions about what He wants us to do about it. If we really believe that Jesus alone can save, it ought to drastically altar the way that we live our lives. We know what God wants for those people-the question is not whether or not we are called to reach them, but how. Those 1.6 billion people have arrested and engaged my heart in a way that nothing short of Jesus Himself ever has.

That woman is why I came back to Africa-where I’ve met countless Muslim women that share her story. Women like Aya, who after hearing the gospel told me, “You’re so lucky, because Jesus died for you.”-without the foggiest idea that Jesus had died for her too. Or Sophie, who just this week commented “Everything I know about Jesus-I learned from you and Christy.” Or Awa, who after holding and

Aya.

reading a Bible for the first time in her life, looked at Michelle and I with wonder and said “This is good! Who wrote this?!”  Or Khadi, who after finally understanding for the first time why Jesus had to die, wistfully commented “Vraiment, He must truly love us.”

Yes Khadi, vraiment He does.

And those women? They are why I hope that if you walk with Jesus, you will consider how He would have you reach those that do not yet.

[Spending some time here will forever change the way you look at the world, and help you better understand what I'm talking about. ]

2 Comments

Filed under Ministry moments